When mortar joints fail across a wall, patching is not enough. Our licensed and insured masons handle brick repointing in Manhattan the careful way, cutting joints back to sound mortar, matching new mortar to your brick and packing it in layers so it bonds and lasts for decades.
Brick repointing is the removal of deteriorated mortar from the joints of a brick wall to a uniform, sound depth and the replacement of that mortar with new mortar matched to the original. It is the long term fix for walls where joints are open, cracked or soft across large areas. Done right, it restores the wall’s weather seal without harming the brick.
How deep joints are cut compared with their width before new mortar goes in
The thickness of each layer of new mortar packed into a deep joint
The temperature mortar needs while it is placed and cures
Not every wall needs brick repointing from top to bottom. The right call depends on how much of the mortar has failed and where.
If you only need a few small areas sealed for now, see Flash Pointing Manhattan.
The most important rule of repointing is that new mortar must be softer and more breathable than the brick around it. If it is harder, the brick takes the stress instead of the joint, and faces start to crack and spall. We match the strength, color, sand and texture of the original mortar before a single joint is filled.
| Mortar Type | What It Is | Where We Use It in Manhattan |
|---|---|---|
| Lime Putty or High Lime Mortar | Soft, breathable lime with little or no cement | Soft hand-made brick on older row houses and landmark facades |
| Type O | Low strength cement-lime mortar | Older brick that needs a softer mix but a quicker set than pure lime |
| Type N | Medium strength cement-lime mortar | Most above-grade brick walls on 20th century walk-ups and apartment buildings |
| Type S and Type M | High strength cement-rich mortars | Rarely for repointing, because they are usually too hard for existing brick |
On landmark buildings, mortar may also be tested to identify the original mix, and the Landmarks Preservation Commission reviews samples of color, texture and tooling before work begins.
New mortar needs depth to grip the wall. The accepted guide for historic and modern brick is to remove old mortar to two to two and a half times the width of the joint, and always back to sound mortar. Joints are squared at the back and the brick edges are never chipped.
| Joint Width | Typical Rake-Out Depth |
|---|---|
| 1/4 inch | About 1/2 to 5/8 inch |
| 3/8 inch | About 3/4 to 1 inch |
| 1/2 inch | About 1 to 1 1/4 inch |
Our brick repointing in Manhattan follows six steps that take a worn wall from failed joints to a tight, matched finish.
We map failed joints by elevation and take samples of the existing mortar to study its color, sand and hardness.
A matched mix is prepared and a small test area is pointed on your wall so the color and texture can be approved once dry.
Old mortar is removed to the right depth with hand tools or narrow blades sized to the joint, without cutting into the brick.
Dust and loose material are cleared out and the joints are lightly dampened so the brick does not pull water out of the new mortar too fast.
Mortar goes in layers about a quarter inch thick, each one left to firm up until it takes a thumbprint before the next. The final layer is tooled to match the original joint profile.
The new joints are kept damp and shaded while they cure, then the wall, windows and sidewalk are cleaned.
On taller buildings, repointing is planned elevation by elevation. We choose the access that fits the building, whether that is pipe scaffolding, a swing stage or a combination, and we schedule the work so each side is finished and inspected before moving on.
When repointing is part of a facade inspection cycle, we follow the QEWI’s report so the work lines up with your filing. See Facade Repair Manhattan for Local Law 11 repairs.
Fixed access for full elevations and long repointing runs.
Suspended platforms for tall, flat walls above busy streets.
Overhead protection that keeps pedestrians and entrances safe.
New joints are only as good as the first few days after they go in. These four conditions decide how well repointing in Manhattan cures.
Mortar is placed and cured above about 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which is why most repointing runs from spring through fall.
Fresh joints are misted and kept damp during the first days so they cure hard instead of drying out.
High walls dry fast in sun and wind, so new work is shaded or covered on exposed elevations.
Fresh joints are protected from heavy rain until they set, so the mortar does not wash out of the joint.
If joints are recessed, sandy or cracked across most of a wall, or if water is coming through in several places, full repointing is usually the right fix. When the damage is limited to small areas, spot pointing can be enough for now.
Cement-lime mortars such as Type N are fine for many 20th century brick walls. Hard, cement-rich mixes are a different story on older soft brick, because they trap moisture and force the brick to crack instead of the joint, so we avoid them there.
No. Repointing replaces mortar, not brick. Cracked, flaking or loose bricks are cut out and replaced as part of Brick Repair Manhattan, and the two jobs are often done together.
Walls move with heat, cold and moisture. A softer joint takes that movement and wears slowly over time, which is far cheaper to fix than brick faces that crack because the mortar was too hard.
Yes. Many owners repoint the street front first and other walls later. We match the new mortar so the repointed front does not clash with the walls left for a later phase.
New joints firm up within a day and gain most of their strength over the following weeks. We keep them damp and protected for the first few days, which is when curing matters most.
Tell us about your building and the walls that worry you. We will look at the joints up close, take mortar samples if needed and give you a written repointing scope.
Historic ribbon joints with color matched stopping mortar.
Cutting out and replacing cracked, spalled or loose brick.
Stopping water at joints, copings and flashing.